Quick question, is this sport ruining anyone else's life? I guess "ruining" is a little harsh, but it all started as a little 17-year-old in Ubatuba, Brazil where I lived with no phone, internet, tv, friends, basically zero shit to do - but I had the beach, a surf board, and a lot of freetime. So, I taught myself how to surf. I spent summers with my cousins in SoCal dreaming surf dreams, but never good enough to paddle out at the Wedge. Even when I moved to Hawaii, I was a sh*t surfer - longboarding every now and then, but my boyfriend at the time didn't really have the patience to paddle out with me. But the second I moved away from there, I was like WHAT WAS I THINKING. So, I dealt with the cold, sharky, quick close out waves of Oregon to whip myself into shape. I made more trips back to Hawaii than reasonable, weekends...yes weekend trips from Portland to Hawaii, leaving Friday and making it back to work on Monday. Stupid. But worth it. Just to SURF......? I've never loved anyone enough to even think of doing something so ridiculous and for what, a sport? But, the first time I really paddled out on North Shore, Oahu with my friend Arnold (legend!!!) and he coached me into some overhead high, longest, terrifying, time-slowing rides of my life... I got to shore, after an hour or so, dropped to my knees and cried. This is, again, ridiculous.
But here I am, in Portugal, frothing like a little 15-year-old at the surf, sucking, getting pounded by 7-8ft waves at Costa da Caparica and loving every single second of it (Reminder, it's about having fun...assholes who act otherwise). Meeting people, becoming better, and more comfortable in the chaos. I even planned to go to Morocco solo mission just to surf a perfect right point break, but got spooked trying to fly down by myself, get in a car with a stranger and drive to the middle-of-nowhere North Africa just to... surf (and enjoy a new exotic place of course). I cancelled my flight, and I'm upset with myself but I'm on a mission to go back, and with friends - more peace of mind - in a country that hasn't, comparatively, given women the most rights until recently. Message me if you want to go. Anyway, I'm on my damn computer looking to re-route to the Canary Islands and stay in a shitty hostel just to surf warm waves. As you can see, I'm fighting this whole thing... I'm no pro, I don't want to be pro, nothing to prove here. But this sh*t is addicting and I don't know why. Is it because this sport leads to some of the most beautiful places on the planet? Promotes a healthy-ish lifestyle? Independence? Simplicity? Anyway, life ruined, I was gonna go to law school at some point LOL!!! Hopefully this little phase will be over soon. S.O.S.
Oh, so since this is a "travel blog" thing, here's where I suggest to go in Portugal!
Where to Surf:
Fonte da Talhe :: I went the other day, perfect long lefts and no one was there, wtf!?
Costa da Caparica :: A bit busier because it is super close to the city, but so many options! Great vibe in the town with surf shops and markets, very convenient if you're staying in Lisbon.
Ereceira :: tbd
Cas Cais :: Overall, great beaches for surf and beach bathers.
Nazare :: You're kidding right? For the pros.
Surf Shops and Board Repair:
Rasta Repair in Cas Cais :: this guy is real deal! He's also handmaking/shaping boards out of cactus, no one else is doing this craziness. Message me if you're interested in one, but we're looking at 400-700 euro per board!
The Collective at Costa da Caparica :: trendy AF
Neat Product I'm Promoting on my Instagram (How we market things now-a-days I guess):
Sceptre Towels @sceptre_towels
Photographer Shout Outs:
Seven Waves Portugal :: My new friend Carmona is starting this up, right near Fonta da Tahla area. He got the keys literally this week & ready for biz soon! Sleeps about 10 people and there's camp grounds on the beach directly next to it, beachside.
Olo Surf Nature :: The spot I shamefully didn't go to in Morocco, but let's go kayyy?
*Excuse the French. PG-13.